How deep should you drive a T-post?

Tool

A red-colored post pounder next to two green steel t-posts

A post pounder, post driver, post rammer, post knocker or fence driver is a tool used for driving fence posts and similar items into land surfaces. It consists of a heavy steel pipe which is closed at one end and has handles welded onto the sides. It is normally used by one person, but larger versions may require two.

History

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An early type was developed in 1933 by the Pennsylvania Department of Transportation to aid the installation of fencing along roads and highways. [1]

Operation

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The open end is put over the top of the post to be driven, then the tool is lifted and dropped repeatedly onto the top of the post. The closed end strikes the top of the post, driving it into the ground. Unlike a maul it can be used easily on tall posts, such as those used for deer fencing. Because the tube guides the striking force consistently in line with the post and strikes it across its full width, a post pounder usually damages the top of the post less than a maul. It is not suitable for posts which will be shorter than the length of the tool, or for posts which do not fit easily into the tube because of bulges or curves, or their over-large diameter. The tool is difficult to use on slanting posts.

The post pounder can also be used to remove t-posts.[2] To do so, put the closed end of the post pounder on the ground about 6 inches from the t-post. It should be on the side of the post with the knobs. Push back on the t-post away from the pounder, then push the top of the pounder so the rim sets beneath the lowest knob possible on the t-post. With the pounder lodged beneath the t-post knob, pull the t-post back to the starting position and it will lift up a few inches. Repeat process until t-post can be removed.

Safety and Precautions

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Single-person post pounders tend to be around 20 pounds (9 kg), but weight varies with model types. The diameter depends on the size of the post to be pounded. They can be dangerous to handle, especially if the lower edge of the pounder catches on the top of the post, when it can pivot towards the user and strike them on the head.

Hearing protection and a hard hat are often recommended.

See also

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References

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Setting up a t-post wire fence is a relatively straightforward process, so we’ve outlined the six primary steps below.
 
Step 1: Set the Corner Posts
         The first step to installing fence posts is to set the fence line’s corners and gates with wooden fence posts. Because wire fences place a lot of tension on the ends of an enclosure, you will want to go ahead and mix a batch of concrete in a wheelbarrow to set the posts with. Dig the holes to a depth of ½ the height of the posts, set the posts in the holes, and fill with concrete to secure.
 
Step 2: Line Up and Space the Posts
         Run a string between all the corner posts as a guide for setting the others in a straight line. Set the metal t-posts 8 to 12 feet apart, using a tape measure to make sure there is even spacing between posts. It can be helpful to lay the posts on the ground under the string before installation to confirm spacing and the number of posts required.
 
Step 3: Position the Posts
         The anchor plate at the bottom of the t-posts should be positioned perpendicular to the fence line and completely buried during installation. If you are using the fence as a livestock enclosure where animals will be putting more pressure against the inside of the fence, face the studs inward. If you are using it to protect a garden from deer or other livestock, direct the studs outward.
 
Step 4: Install the Posts
         To keep animals from pulling the posts out of the ground, drive the t-posts about 18 to 24 inches deep — at least until the anchor plate is covered. A post driver is the most common tool to get the job done; however, a sledgehammer or even a regular hammer can be used if necessary.
 
Step 5: Attach the Wire
         Using a few staples, secure one end of the wire to a corner post with about 18 to 24 inches of excess wire left on the end. Wrap the excess around the main line for a stronger connection, then use a come-along on the next corner to pull the wire tight and secure it with a few more staples. Wrap the excess around the post on that end as well. The wire should be taut, but not so tight that it might break.
 
Step 6: Add Wire Clips
         Using t-post clips will ensure the fencing wires do not slide up and down or get pulled away from the posts. Set the wire clips in a stud on the t-post, hook the wire with one side of the clip, and wrap the other side of the clip around the wire using a pair of fence pliers. Use a clip for every strand of wire running between t-posts.
 
Your local Co-op has all the tools and material you need for your next fencing project. Find the nearest location
 
For more content like this, check out the latest issue of

T-post fences are one of the most efficient and cost-effective ways to contain livestock or exclude wildlife from a garden. The steel posts provide superior strength and durability and are generally much easier to install and repair than wood fencing.Setting up a t-post wire fence is a relatively straightforward process, so we’ve outlined the six primary steps below.The first step to installing fence posts is to set the fence line’s corners and gates with wooden fence posts. Because wire fences place a lot of tension on the ends of an enclosure, you will want to go ahead and mix a batch of concrete in a wheelbarrow to set the posts with. Dig the holes to a depth of ½ the height of the posts, set the posts in the holes, and fill with concrete to secure.Run a string between all the corner posts as a guide for setting the others in a straight line. Set the metal t-posts 8 to 12 feet apart, using a tape measure to make sure there is even spacing between posts. It can be helpful to lay the posts on the ground under the string before installation to confirm spacing and the number of posts required.The anchor plate at the bottom of the t-posts should be positioned perpendicular to the fence line and completely buried during installation. If you are using the fence as a livestock enclosure where animals will be putting more pressure against the inside of the fence, face the studs inward. If you are using it to protect a garden from deer or other livestock, direct the studs outward.To keep animals from pulling the posts out of the ground, drive the t-posts about 18 to 24 inches deep — at least until the anchor plate is covered. A post driver is the most common tool to get the job done; however, a sledgehammer or even a regular hammer can be used if necessary.Using a few staples, secure one end of the wire to a corner post with about 18 to 24 inches of excess wire left on the end. Wrap the excess around the main line for a stronger connection, then use a come-along on the next corner to pull the wire tight and secure it with a few more staples. Wrap the excess around the post on that end as well. The wire should be taut, but not so tight that it might break.Using t-post clips will ensure the fencing wires do not slide up and down or get pulled away from the posts. Set the wire clips in a stud on the t-post, hook the wire with one side of the clip, and wrap the other side of the clip around the wire using a pair of fence pliers. Use a clip for every strand of wire running between t-posts.Your local Co-op has all the tools and material you need for your next fencing project. Find the nearest location here For more content like this, check out the latest issue of The Cooperator