Question about Performing Valve Leak Test

27 May.,2024

 

Question about Performing Valve Leak Test


new gasket is MLS
Rover say in manual that the head must not be slimmed for some reason or another ..
if it was it would have to have far too much taken off to remove damage from around these ...
these aqreas are the total damage ...there is a small ding that was probably done at the foundrey and not close to anything. ..

the fire-ring area is good and sound ...which is all I'm concerned about hylomar will heal the rest





the rest of the head is good and sound ...the fire ring is a stain !!

Yes I know you can alloy weld ...but ...this is my Transport ...my only transport ...and specialist welders are far and few ..and like I said I don't have the means of getting the stuff to them....or can budget ...read-on.

So it be hylomared ...I've done it in the past and it has worked with identical corrosion ...and many tens of thousands of miles later hasn't failed.


my main concern is my valve seats ...the ones on the valve itself ..

seems to be pitted by corrosion of some sort.

looked OK and was well sealed in by carbon before I gently wire brushed them,....

I don't know if this is a phenomenon or not ...but on every car I've taken apart ...they are all a good seal with the valves ..because ...the pits get immediately filled with carbon ...and what you see to the eye before gently wire brushing away is perfect seats on them !!!!!

so it seams pits are self healing ..in a way .

I have a valve grinder ...but have never been instructed on its use ...
I cant get my head around things like ...once ground the valve sits lower in its seat ...there for the stem is higher ...would the hydraulic tappets have enough range to cope once squeezed etc...

so all these things spring to mind ...and I may end up taking the head with loose valves to a specialist ...as I just don't have the knowlege...do they have all the thoughts I have ...or don't they care about what happens after the seats are ground with the length issues, geometry etc.........is the question ..

Do you guys think I'm capable of using this valve grinding machine for the first time and ending up with a perfect job.

read my not so perfect attitude to head skimming ...and think about my modest means I have in the way of money ...before you have a go at me ...after this .

Engine now has ...(all my own work)

rebuilt gearbox with all new bearings .

new main bearings
big ends
hone
new rings
water pump
belts
clutch .

it just goes on
on so much ...that i am now in a situation that Ive spent as much on engine and box ...that i paid for the whole car ..

maybe I'm too picky ..


But I've got to draw the line somewhere ...and i know this head is good in my judgement ..not to warrant skimming ...and the valves is another thing I'm looking into ...

You guys can tell me about this ....weather you think I should have a go with my grinder, the phenomenon above..
or if I should pay another one hundred or so to the have seats and valves refaced ...by someone who don't think as deep as me .

I also ask the guys here with the mechanical apititude ...but lacking in money what would they do.

and look at the top of the page ...it does say Practical Machinst.

My interpretation of this says do things by a ways and means as best as you can with linited skills knowledge and money ...


but if you have all the above ,fare do's to you all ...your living a better life than me .

But are you really happy with life .......there;s a thought.

42?

Norman ?

all the best...mark ...a man of modest means , no great skills ..but always willing to take advice from the great guys here .

Thanks guys .new gasket is MLSRover say in manual that the head must not be slimmed for some reason or another ..if it was it would have to have far too much taken off to remove damage from around these ...these aqreas are the total damage ...there is a small ding that was probably done at the foundrey and not close to anything. ..the fire-ring area is good and sound ...which is all I'm concerned about hylomar will heal the restthe rest of the head is good and sound ...the fire ring is a stain !!Yes I know you can alloy weld ...but ...this is my Transport ...my only transport ...and specialist welders are far and few ..and like I said I don't have the means of getting the stuff to them....or can budget ...read-on.So it be hylomared ...I've done it in the past and it has worked with identical corrosion ...and many tens of thousands of miles later hasn't failed.my main concern is my valve seats ...the ones on the valve itself ..seems to be pitted by corrosion of some sort.looked OK and was well sealed in by carbon before I gently wire brushed them,....I don't know if this is a phenomenon or not ...but on every car I've taken apart ...they are all a good seal with the valves ..because ...the pits get immediately filled with carbon ...and what you see to the eye before gently wire brushing away is perfect seats on them !!!!!so it seams pits are self healing ..in a way .I have a valve grinder ...but have never been instructed on its use ...I cant get my head around things like ...once ground the valve sits lower in its seat ...there for the stem is higher ...would the hydraulic tappets have enough range to cope once squeezed etc...so all these things spring to mind ...and I may end up taking the head with loose valves to a specialist ...as I just don't have the knowlege...do they have all the thoughts I have ...or don't they care about what happens after the seats are ground with the length issues, geometry etc.........is the question ..Do you guys think I'm capable of using this valve grinding machine for the first time and ending up with a perfect job.read my not so perfect attitude to head skimming ...and think about my modest means I have in the way of money ...before you have a go at me ...after this .Engine now has ...(all my own work)rebuilt gearbox with all new bearings .new main bearingsbig endshonenew ringswater pumpbeltsclutch .it just goes onon so much ...that i am now in a situation that Ive spent as much on engine and box ...that i paid for the whole car ..maybe I'm too picky ..But I've got to draw the line somewhere ...and i know this head is good in my judgement ..not to warrant skimming ...and the valves is another thing I'm looking into ...You guys can tell me about this ....weather you think I should have a go with my grinder, the phenomenon above..or if I should pay another one hundred or so to the have seats and valves refaced ...by someone who don't think as deep as me .I also ask the guys here with the mechanical apititude ...but lacking in money what would they do.and look at the top of the page ...it does say Practical Machinst.My interpretation of this says do things by a ways and means as best as you can with linited skills knowledge and money ...but if you have all the above ,fare do's to you all ...your living a better life than me .But are you really happy with life .......there;s a thought.42?Norman ?all the best...mark ...a man of modest means , no great skills ..but always willing to take advice from the great guys here .

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Best Practices for Testing Pressure Relief Valves - MPC

Table of Contents

    Safety is of the utmost importance when dealing with pressure relief valves. The valve is designed to limit system pressure, and it is critical that they remain in working order to prevent an explosion. Explosions have caused far too much damage in companies over the years, and though pressurized tanks and vessels are equipped with pressure relief vales to enhance safety, they can fail and result in disaster.

    That&#;s also why knowing the correct way to test the valves is important. Ongoing maintenance and periodic testing of pressurized tanks and vessels and their pressure relief valves keeps them in working order and keep employees and their work environments safe. Pressure relief valves must be in good condition in order to automatically lower tank and vessel pressure; working valves open slowly when the pressure gets high enough to exceed the pressure threshold and then closes slowly until the unit reaches the low, safe threshold. To ensure the pressure relief valve is in good working condition, employees must follow best practices for testing them including:

    Read on to learn more about each of the best practices for testing pressure relief valves.

    1. Perform Regular Testing on Boiler Pressure Relief Valves

    If you consider testing pressure relief valves a maintenance task, you&#;ll be more likely to carry out regular testing and ensure the safety of your organization and the longevity of your boiler. It is recommended that you test pressure relief valves at least once every six months, especially to reduce leakage caused by the buildup of minerals and corrosion. Scheduling pressure relief valve testing every six months enables you to troubleshoot issues and fix them promptly. Be sure your company documents your relief valve testing activities.

    It&#;s important to note, however, that the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) and National Board Inspection Code (NBIC), as well as state and local jurisdictions, may set requirements for testing frequency. Companies are responsible for checking with these organizations to become familiar with the testing requirements. Consider the following NBIC recommendations on the frequency for testing relief valves:

    • High-pressure steam boilers greater than 15 psi and less than 400 psi &#; perform manual check every six months and pressure test annually to verify nameplate set pressure
    • High-pressure steam boilers 400 psi and greater &#; pressure test to verify nameplate set pressure every three years or as determined by operating experience as verified by testing history
    • High-temperature hot water boilers (greater than 160 psi and/or 250 degrees Fahrenheit) &#; pressure test annually to verify nameplate set pressure. For safety reasons, removal and testing on a test bench is recommended
    • Low-pressure steam boilers (15 psi and less) &#; manually check quarterly and pressure test annually
    • Hot water heating boilers &#; manually check quarterly and pressure test annually
    • Water heaters &#; manually check every two months and replace defective valves with a new valve if a repair or resetting is indicated

    For more information, please visit Sealing Test Bench.

    When testing the pressure relief valve, raise and lower the test lever several times. The lever will come away from the brass stem and allow hot water to come out of the end of the drainpipe. The water should flow through the pipe, and then you should turn down the pressure to stop the leak, replace the lever, and then increase the pressure.

    One of the most common problems you can address with regular testing is the buildup of mineral salt, rust, and corrosion. When buildup occurs, the valve will become non-operational; the result can be an explosion. Regular testing helps you discover these issues sooner so you can combat them and keep your boiler and valve functioning properly. If no water flows through the pipe, or if there is a trickle instead of a rush of water, look for debris that is preventing the valve from seating properly. You may be able to operate the test lever a few times to correct the issue. You will need to replace the valve if this test fails.

    2. Be Aware of the Pop-Off Pressure Point

     When testing relief valves, keep in mind that they have two basic functions. First, they will pop off when the pressure exceeds its safety threshold. The valve will pop off and open to exhaust the excess pressure until the tank&#;s pressure decreases to reach the set minimum pressure. After this blowdown process occurs, the valve should reset and automatically close. One important testing safety measure is to use a pressure indicator with a full-scale range higher than the pop-off pressure.

    Thus, you need to be aware of the pop-off pressure point of whatever tank or vessel you test. You always should remain within the pressure limits of the test stand and ensure the test stand is assembled properly and proof pressure tested. Then, take steps to ensure the escaping pressure from the valve is directed away from the operator and that everyone involved in the test uses safety shields and wears safety eye protection.

    3. Know When to Repair or Replace Pressure Relief Valves

    When you have pressure relief valves in your facility or along your pipeline system, you need to know they are functional and when to repair or replace them. By testing regularly and following a repair/replacement schedule, you&#;ll not only ensure the safety and well-being of your organization, but you&#;ll also extend the life of your valves. There are three times you should consider repairing or replacing your valves: after discharge, according to local jurisdictional requirements, and depending on their service or application.

    • After discharge &#; Because pressure relief valves are designed to open automatically to relieve pressure in your system and then close, they may be able to open and close multiple times during normal operation and testing. However, when a valve opens, debris may get into the valve seat and prevent the valve from closing properly. After discharge, check the valve for leakage. If the leakage exceeds the original settings, you need to repair the valve.
    • According to local jurisdictional requirements &#; Regulations are in place for various locations and industries that stipulate how long valves may operate before needing to be repair or replaced. State inspectors may require valves to be disassembled, inspected, repaired, and tested every five years, for instance. If you have smaller valves and applications, you can test the valve by lifting the test lever. However, you should do this approximately once a year. It&#;s important to note that ASME UG136A Section 3 requires valves to have a minimum of 75% operating pressure versus the set pressure of the valve for hand lifting to be performed for these types of tests.
    • Depending on their service and application &#; The service and application of a valve affect its lifespan. Valves used for clean service like steam typically last at least 20 years if they are not operated too close to the set point and are part of a preventive maintenance program. Conversely, valves used for services such as acid service, those that are operated too close to the set point, and those exposed to dirt or debris need to be replaced more often.

    Pressure relief valves serve a critical role in protecting organizations and employees from explosions. Knowing how and when to test and repair or replace them is essential.

    Images via Pixabay by TheoRivierenlaan and Tama66

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