You have treated wood so watch what hardware you use. That&#;s probably what JD was talking about. You need different hardware for treated wood.
Many people use screws and washers but I don&#;t. I take a strip of wood, ½&#; to ¾&#; thick and lay that over the ends of the hardware cloth, drill a pilot hole so the wood doesn&#;t split, and screw that on. With treated wood, get the screws especially made for treated wood. Just clamping the wood on tight will hold it, but putting the screws through holes in the hardware cloth makes it all that much more secure. The wood also covers the ends of the hardware cloth so it looks neat and does not snag your clothes or skin.
The risk to this is that the wood can split if you don&#;t drill pilot holes (which makes it a lot easier to start the screws anyway) or if you use wood too thin or too brittle. I use a table saw and rip mine out of a 2x4.
When people talk about staples, they are not talking about the kind of staples you use to staple a few pieces of paper together. I&#;ve seen that confusion on here before. They are talking about the heavy duty construction staples.
I also use the fencing staples you drive in with a hammer on round fence posts where covering it with a strip of flat wood is more difficult. I don&#;t use the ¾&#; poultry staples because I don&#;t think they are robust enough to keep a raccoon form pulling them out. I use 1-1/4&#; fencing staples. When installing them you need the piece you are driving them into to be pretty solid. If the piece is thin it can split or if it can vibrate or is flimsy these staples are a real pain to drive in.
There are different ways to do this. I just like using wood and screws instead of screws and washers. I have not compared costs but by ripping a 2x4 instead of buying already cut wood for this, I don&#;t think it costs all that much, but I have a good table saw. What tools you have or are willing to buy, rent, or borrow make a difference.
Good luck!
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I have a quick question on "dobies" for supporting rebar and wire-mesh-mats in a concrete form.I know these are widely used but suppose I have a 4" minimum slab with a 2" dobie to center the wire more or less. That leaves a section of concrete that's only 2" thick above...is there any shrinkage that could leave a weak spot?Just to add some more discussion on a related subject, I've seen lots of pours with workers using hooked rods pulling the wire mesh up into position. While that might make it easy...my thoughts are that it doesn't help the concrete tensile as much as a flat & level mat. If the mat gets wave-shaped, think slow rolling "sine wave", then for the steel to add much tensile it would have to be pulled flat/horizontal again and by that time the concrete would have cracked.I realize this is an oversimplification since the mesh isn't simply supported and the concrete would have to fracture obliquely for the mesh to stretch out but IMHO there's an element of truth too.I do plan to set my own forms, rebar, mats, anchor bolts, and pour "tensile test cylinders" from each truck...this way if I'm getting screwed I only have 1 person to blame.Added: link to a "dobie"
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