PVC flooring isn't hard to install; it just takes precision and time.
Andrealopezb via Wikimedia Commons
In terms of surface hardness, PVC flooring material is somewhere between stone and rug, which makes it perfect for anyone looking for something in between. And while it's easier to install PVC flooring than wood or ceramic plates, achieving a long-lasting, professional-looking outcome requires precision and time. Make sure to measure carefully, as you can only cut the material so many times.
Using the right tools is crucial for getting a good and permanent result. You definitely have to use a sharp knife to cut the vinyl. I recommend checking the sharpness now and then since the material can wear out quite fast. If you are installing it in a bathroom, then you should always avoid having joints. If you can't avoid that, then you should always fill the joints with a filler. These are usually added with a hot air gun that melts the filler into the joints and fills them up.
Learn the steps involved in installing your own PVC flooring
An uneven base floor can be evened out with a special mixture of construction plates that are designed for building floors. Here are some tips to help you prepare to use your PVC:
In order to start installing the flooring, you first need to make sure that the base is clean, even, dry, and strong.
Installing PVC flooring doesn't necessarily mean that you need to remove the old floor cover. If the old floor is made out of strong material and it's even, then you can most probably keep it. An old floor can be an excellent base. The PVC sheets are quite thin, which is why uneven spots are noticeable. It's not rare that you need to fix the base floor first.
Cracks and hollow spots have to be filled with filling mixture. Parts that are higher should be ground.
If you have an uneven wood floor, then you can use plywood sheets to cover it. These are attached with screws and then covered with base paint. This avoids the plywood from absorbing the glue. You should also avoid using nails as they can come out when the floor moves. There should also be a 10 mm gap between the base floor and the walls. This is so the base floor doesn't curve upwards when the moisture content changes.
An uneven concrete floor can be evened out with filling mixture or by grinding. With a filling mixture, you should most definitely wait before it hardens and the moisture content matches the room. I recommend covering a concrete floor with a steam-proof construction film.
If you want to remove old PVC flooring, then that's usually quite simple. Sometimes an old vinyl cover can be just laid out on the floor. But if it's been glued, then you can just make random cuts and rip it off. After that, you have to remove the old glue. You can use a filling scraper and a hot air gun for that.
The PVC flooring material doesn't stretch, which is why it's incredibly important to cut it right. Wrong cuts are later on hard, if not impossible, to fix. I recommend creating a sketch layout of the room. This way you can plan everything, including where the joints will be. It's recommended to plan joints in locations where they aren't very visible. Some people create a stencil out of old newspapers that they later use to cut the PVC. This is an easy way if the rooms are small.
The great thing about PVC flooring is that it's really easy to clean. It doesn't have any pores, which means that it doesn't collect any dirt. Most stains come off easily with water and washing liquid. You should avoid using chemicals that can damage the material, including all kinds of acids, etc. that don't react well with plastic.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
1
Decide on the pattern for your vinyl. Vinyl typically comes in 12 inch (30.5 cm) square tiles, but it may come in sheets. If you have vinyl sheets, all you have to do is cut it out to fit the room, allowing for seams if the room is wider than the sheet. Vinyl tiles, on the other hand, must be applied in a pattern. It’s typically easiest to apply vinyl in rows, but you may want to change the direction of the rows (for example, have them go diagonally across the room). #Determine how you will lay the floor. You may strike a chalk line as a guide to the first row of vinyl (if you are using tiles. Keep in mind that you will always start your pattern in the center of the room and work your way out, in order to keep it symmetrical.
2
Determine the application process for your vinyl. There are two types of vinyl: self-stick, and glue down. Self-stick vinyl is very straight forward, as it comes with an adhesive backing that you use to stick it to the floor. Glue down vinyl takes a bit more work, as it requires you to put a layer of vinyl flooring glue on the underlayer prior to placing your vinyl. If you have self-stick vinyl, simply follow the directions for application and you are set. If you have unglued vinyl, continue on for instructions on applying it.[6]There are two types of vinyl: self-stick, and glue down. Self-stick vinyl is very straight forward, as it comes with an adhesive backing that you use to stick it to the floor. Glue down vinyl takes a bit more work, as it requires you to put a layer of vinyl flooring glue on the underlayer prior to placing your vinyl. If you have self-stick vinyl, simply follow the directions for application and you are set. If you have unglued vinyl, continue on for instructions on applying it.
3
Mark your pattern on your paper template. To make applying your vinyl easier, you can lay it out and cut it to fit using your paper template. Simply lay the vinyl out on the template, and use it as a pattern for cutting your vinyl to size. If you prefer, you can skip this step and measure/cut your vinyl directly in the room, on the underlayer.
4
Begin gluing the vinyl flooring. Get your vinyl flooring adhesive out, and get a notched trowel. Generally a1⁄16
inch (0.2 cm) trowel is used for spreading the adhesive, some adhesives may also be applied with a short-napped paint roller. Start in a corner of the room (following your pattern), and scoop out some of the glue onto the trowel. Spread this across the underlayer in one section of the room, and then wait a few minutes for the ‘open’ time to set; laying the vinyl right away will cause air bubbles to form as the solvents evaporate from the adhesive.Get your vinyl flooring adhesive out, and get a notched trowel. Generally ainch (0.2 cm) trowel is used for spreading the adhesive, some adhesives may also be applied with a short-napped paint roller. Start in a corner of the room (following your pattern), and scoop out some of the glue onto the trowel. Spread this across the underlayer in one section of the room, and then wait a few minutes for the ‘open’ time to set; laying the vinyl right away will cause air bubbles to form as the solvents evaporate from the adhesive.
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5
Lay the vinyl. For solid vinyl tiles (VCT, or vinyl composition tiles), place each one flat, perfectly aligned with the row, and snugly abutting the previous tile. Do not slide the tiles when laying them, as this will "drag" the adhesive.
6
Press the vinyl down to stick it to the adhesive. If you’re using small vinyl tiles, you can use a rolling pin (yes, like the one in your kitchen); otherwise, rent a floor roller from a local home and garden center. Apply pressure as you roll over the tile in order to stick it to the adhesive and the underlayer. Do this for each section of vinyl that you lay, and then again when you’ve completed all of the vinyl.[7]If you’re using small vinyl tiles, you can use a rolling pin (yes, like the one in your kitchen); otherwise, rent a floor roller from a local home and garden center. Apply pressure as you roll over the tile in order to stick it to the adhesive and the underlayer. Do this for each section of vinyl that you lay, and then again when you’ve completed all of the vinyl.
7
Continue applying the vinyl. Work your way across the floor, applying the vinyl according your your pattern. Lay out some of the glue, allow it to dry until tacky, stick the vinyl, roll over it with your roller, and repeat the process at the next section. Fill the entire floor with the vinyl, until you reach the edges. If you need to cut vinyl to fit the odd edge spaces, do so now. Otherwise, place your cut vinyl into these spaces and roll over them to verify that they are secured.
8
Finish the flooring. Wait several hours for the floor adhesive to dry (according to package instructions), and then begin replacing the molding/trim that you removed and adding the threshold strips. If you installed your vinyl flooring in a bathroom, use a caulk gun to caulk around the edges of the floor where they meet with the baseboards. This will protect from water damage and help your vinyl to last longer.[8]Wait several hours for the floor adhesive to dry (according to package instructions), and then begin replacing the molding/trim that you removed and adding the threshold strips. If you installed your vinyl flooring in a bathroom, use a caulk gun to caulk around the edges of the floor where they meet with the baseboards. This will protect from water damage and help your vinyl to last longer.
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