When it comes to ordering silver sheet and wire for jewelry making, as a beginner all the different options can often become overwhelming. When you are starting out creating jewelry you don’t want to break the bank buying a bunch of materials you may never utilize! You want to have the ability to be thoughtful about your design, considering which thickness of metal will be appropriate for executing your vision and also strong enough to hold up during daily wear.
In this comprehensive guide, I will provide visuals to help demystify the different options so that the next time you purchase materials for a project you can do so in confidence! Whether you're a seasoned artisan or a budding jeweler, understanding the nuances of the different options is crucial for bringing your designs to life.
Before we talk about anything we must discuss the different options for purchasing silver. The most common is sterling silver (.925) which has 7.5% copper giving the sterling durability and strength but increasing its susceptibility to firescale and tarnish. The other main option is fine silver (.999) It’s significantly softer than sterling, has a whiter appearance and is way less prone to tarnishing as it is almost entirely pure silver. Fine silver can be fused.
My perspective for beginners is that fine will generally be too soft for ring bands and structural parts of your jewelry designs, it can dent and bend. It can however be nice for a bezel wire.Then there is Argentium Silver which comes in two grades .940 and .960. It has increased tarnish resistance, a whiter color and a firestain-free surface. Argentium guarantees traceability of its raw silver, it is certified to be produced using only recycled silver. It can also be fused unlike sterling silver. Sounds amazing, but I confess I have very little personal experience with it, it wasn’t very popular when I came onto the jewelry making scene in 2005. There are some differences between working with Argentium and Sterling so if you choose this path be sure to read up on it!
Most jewelers especially beginners will likely learn with Sterling, it is the most affordable and the durability aspect is very important!
When you go to buy a sheet of silver you are going to have to select a “gauge”. This is the common measurement used here in United States. Gauge is a standardized measurement, the lower the gauge number the thicker the metal is and that is where much of the confusion begins! It is also important to understand the corresponding measurements in millimeters which I will also provide.
Sheet metal is going to be one of your most commonly used forms of silver when making jewelry. Sheet is available for purchase from jewelry supply companies here in the United States from 8g (3.2mm) to 34g (0.2mm) so that is quite the range! In this article I’m going to focus on sterling silver (.925) when making my recommendations.
To answer the above question I have to start with the annoying response “it depends”. Without knowing what you are designing I can’t provide an exact answer but I can explain a good place to start as a beginner and why.Generally speaking if your plan is to have sheet on hand to use as the baseplate of bezel settings and pendants or perhaps sheet for earrings…you cannot go wrong with purchasing 18g (1mm) it is thick enough to be stamped, light enough to construct earrings and strong enough to back a bezel without warping. While on the thinner side it could also be used to create a ring band making it a very versatile purchase. If it is within your budget I would also recommend some 20g (.81mm) and some 16g (1.2mm) having these slightly thinner and thicker options will give you more versatility as you continue on making jewelry. My preference with my jewelry business (corkieboltonjewelry.com) is to make jewelry that is on the thicker side, not heavy or chunky but just substantial.
On top of selecting the metal type (sterling or fine) and the gauge you will also have the options for different tempers. Temper refers to the hardness of the metal. The options are: dead soft (annealed), ¼ hard (a bit resistant to bending but readily takes shape) , ½ hard (has been worked a bit, tightening the grain at the molecular level. You can still bend the metal a bit, with force), and spring hard (thoroughly hardened and has basically no malleability.) If you will be soldering on the piece you’re making, you may as well start with dead soft because it’s easy to work with and any hardness the metal may have will be lost when you apply heat to solder. Here is an example of when to order a harder sheet: Let’s say all I’m doing is sawing out a design and cold connecting it, a harder option gives strength to my piece, and that strength will be maintained since I’m not soldering.
So with those options in mind, here are a few questions you can ask yourself when designing your project and selecting the sheet: Is the project I’m making going to get a lot of wear and tear (like a ring or a bracelet?) If the answer is yes, sterling is your best choice (since fine silver is softer). Next you need to choose a gauge heavy enough to experience the wear and tear but light enough to be comfortably. Heavy earrings for example can be uncomfortable and a while delicate ring can be cute it can also get squished. Maybe you are making a bunch of bezels and using simple backplates 20g (.81mm) would likely save you a little money but still be strong enough!
When it comes to ordering metal for jewelry making all the different options can often become overwhelming. There are so many varieties of sheet metals, wires and decorative metals. So I partnered with Rio Grande to provide a guide with some helpful tips and considerations for confidently buying materials for your next project!
Wire is going to be your next most commonly used form of silver in jewelry making and thankfully it is not as much of an investment to purchase different gauges because you can buy a single foot of wire pretty inexpensively. Wire can be commonly found in even more gauges 0 (8.26mm) - 32 (.2mm). Wire is used in so many different ways you will want to consider once again: what kind of project am I making? Where on the body will it be worn? If we use the image of rings as an example we can see that the 10g (2.5mm) wire will provide us with more strength than the 14g (1.6mm). It is probably that a 14g ring like this in sterling silver would become mishappen in no time at all, but it could make a beautiful hoop earring! So choosing the gauge wire you will need for a project definitely depends on the amount of wear and tear (for example bangles and rings gets more wear and tear than earrings and pendants).
For earring posts and French wires I have found that 20g (0.80mm) is good for most customers. The hardness of the wire you choose is once again all about application, if you are soldering the wire it becomes annealed, but if you are making an earring wire which will simply be formed and cold connected, you could in this case benefit from working with half-hard or hard since it will maintain that hardness and give the earring wire strength! You can also use hard wire for wrapping wire or creating rivets.
I wanted to include an image of half round wire as well because it is extremely popular, and if you order it based off of what you know about round wire you might end up with wire a bit thinner than you expected! Half-round has a flat side and a round sound making it a great option for ring bands and cuffs! The gauge is determined by the thickest part of the wire, but because it doesn't have this thickness throughout it is a daintier wire! So personally I would purchase 8g or thicker for a ring and I'd experiement with gauges 0-4 for cuffs! You want those to be sturdy!
One of the most common questions is: what gauge bezel wire should I purchase? It typically comes in gauges 24 (.51mm) - 30 (.25mm) and in various heights. First, let’s focus on gauge. If you are newer to bezel setting, consider 28g-30g because it’s easier to push over, especially if you’re doing it all by hand using a bezel rocker tool and a burnisher. You might even consider a fine silver bezel because it will push over more easily. If you’re hammer setting, either with a hammer hand piece or manually, you can use a thicker gauge bezel wire.
Next, consider the stone you plan to set and look up the stone’s hardness (MOH scale). If the stone is delicate you should set by hand (as opposed to hammer) and therefore can use a thinner gauge (28-30g). Softer stones can be set with thicker bezels but this takes some practice, when I was starting out I accidently hammered many an opal!
Regarding bezel height, take the shape and height of your cabochon into consideration. Order a few heights of bezel wire so you have options, if it’s too tall you can always trim it down or sand it. If you like to use a variety of cabochons in your work you’ll find having a variety of bezel wire on hand very helpful. In my book I dedicated an entire section to choosing the right bezel height and other bezel setting tips!
There are tons of gallery wires, decorative bezels and patterned wire options available to purchase. With the knowledge you now how you can look at the listing and see how thick these items are, how tall they are if you are using them to set a stone. Whether they are a good choice for your design. Sometimes the heart wants what the heart wants, you are drawn to a wire and you buy it and figure out a design later and that’s okay!
Gallery wires should be annealed (carefully) prior to forming due to how they are produced they can be a bit brittle when you form them, same is true of some of the beaded wires! You want to form all of these gently and be careful not to mar your metal! I know melting is definitely an issue many beginners experience so when you work with decorative wires be gently with your heat. Directing your flame from below instead of putting the flame directly onto the decorative wire can help prevent melting.
You can find jewelry making materials form the following retailers:
HALSTEAD BEAD
STULLER
RIO GRANDE
If you are interested in learning more definitely check out my book Metalsmith Society’s Guide To Jewelry Making. It covers all the tools you need to get started making jewelry, safety, all the basic techniques and includes ten simple projects to get you going! I have a shopping list for each project so if you are lookinh for a basic project to get started grab a copy of my book today!
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Introduction
While cultivating plants, there are two vital actions. Monitoring air and leaf temperature are essential for quality.
The climate in a greenhouse helps plants not only to survive but to develop quickly.
The problem occurs in the summer: it becomes too hot due to a greenhouse’s purpose to trap the sun’s energy and heat.
The gardener and plants are under stress because of hotness, plus plants are dying.
That is easy to avoid by controlling the volume of sunlight to which plants are displaying.
That way, we need an Aluminet shade cloth.
What is Aluminet Shade Cloth?
Aluminet Shade Cloth is a product that is constructed of a thin, transparent polyester film combined with an aluminum foil strip.
This reflective sun shade material reduces water loss up to 60% by providing maximum shading for crops.
With canopy temperature reduced by 8°C, it improves crop yield by creating a healthier environment for yield-critical plants, such as specific flowers, vegetables, and fruits. So the Aluminet is the best choice for greenhouse cloth.
Aluminet shade cloth is available in 300 denier polyester mesh material which is the ideal choice when durability is needed. It is intended to shade plants, fruits, and trees from sunlight while still allowing plenty of light to reach the plant so they can grow.
The knitted ones come in various weights and strengths. That includes UV-stabilized polyethylene covers, netting, and aluminum shade cloth.
The purpose is to block a percentage of light from entering the building. Hence, it is for keeping plants healthier.
The densities of cloths extend from 30% to 90%. The variation helps meet the individual demands of various plants, flowers, and crops.
Shade cloth is in use for both general and commercial gardening. Also, it is in use for farming and greenhouses. It also prevents the water from evaporating to keep the plants hydrated.
What is the difference between Black Shade Cloth and Aluminet Shade?
Black shade cloth and aluminet shade netting both have the performance of shading.
However, the screed shade netting made of black shade cloth is woven by using special weaving machines to form high-density polyethylene knitted mesh with a certain mesh size (e.g., 0.9–1.2mm).
The process to produce Aluminet Shade Cloth is cutting, bending, and rolling the aluminium foil strips.
Black shade cloth and aluminet shade cloth are different in technology, material, and performance.
As you can imagine, The Aluminet Shade Cloth is easier to cool down a greenhouse when you build it with shade cloth. Also, aluminet shade cloth is able to reflect more heat when light passes through it than black shade cloth, so it will let plants gain more benefits and be healthier on hot days.
But which one is better?
There are three primary benefits in choosing aluminet:
Reflecting the heat.
Aluminet doesn’t absorb the heat but reflects it. Black absorbs the sun’s rays.
When black shade cloth is in use, the net absorbs radiation, resulting in a hotter temperature. Aluminet works opposite. It reflects radiation away from the net, which results in lower temperatures.
The amount of brightness.
The net of black shade cloth will absorb rays of daylight coming from various low angles. On the other side is the reflectivity of the aluminet. It will allow much of this low-angle light to pass through. The light’s passing is crucial.
The reason is that with direct sunlight, the upper leaves get excess light, and the lower ones don’t. With diffused light, the light is scattering smoother throughout the object.
Thermal Blanket
The plants and floor in a greenhouse give off invisible heat radiation at night. Aluminet, when the gardener installs it, works as a thermal blanket. Also, it reflects this radiation to the plants maintaining warmer leaf temperatures. This process decreases condensation on the leaves. At the same time, it helps to maintain warmer air temperatures within the construction.
That is to say, the Aluminet shade cloth is more effective than the black shade cloth.
But either way, they both are more than useful. Aluminum foil net also has a heat preservation effect. It is important to remember that there is a light-slow emission effect. It happens after adding a transparent film.
Otherwise, black cloth could be the preferred choice as it is more affordable.
Blackout ShadeThe Advantages of Aluminet Shade Cloth
Aluminet effectively reduces temperatures by up to 10°F and can be used as a wind blocker in cold weather.
This silver shade mesh has been used to protect crops in the greenhouse, shade animals and livestock, cool greenhouses and structures, and control light pollution in observatories.
Dr. Daniel H. Willits has studied at North Carolina State University (NCSU).
According to him, black shade provides little thermal improvement in the greenhouse. In contrast, aluminet shade cloth results in redecing heat radiation and keeping greenhouse temperatures well.
Dr. Willits also reported that reflective materials decrease 30% heat radiation in botanical-garden.
Compared to that, black shade cloth has a 60% shading level without the function of keeping heat radiation.
This process turned to significant reductions in leaf/greenhouse temperature. Of course, it increases a greenhouse’s productivity potential.
The addition to the study is the customers’ testimony. They claimed that Aluminet cloth is making double improvement than dark fabric.
As they state, the benefits of Aluminet cover:
What color of shade cloth is the best?
The spectrum of colors used for shade cloth is broad: black, green, white, red, yellow, and blue. The most frequent ones are black and green.
On the other side is an Aluminet shade cloth, a particular type of material.
Choosing the right color is far more than a simple matter of personal preference. It also depends on the plants’ type and the usage scenario.
White shade cloth is often in use for flowering plants. The reason is the capacity of the white fabric to reduce the quantity of light. At the same time, it doesn’t reduce the quality of the light spectrum. All this results in rapid growth. But red color can serve specific plants by clarifying various wavelengths of light.
Dark color shade (black and green) cloth can absorb the sun’s radiation. The ability to absorb means it behaves like a filter. So, it deprives the plants of getting much sunlight. Black shade cloth is commonly used as a ground cover to reduce weed growth. Because black absorbs more heat, it can also be used in winter to help keep soil warm by blocking frost from penetrating into the ground. They are also used as windbreak fencing or privacy fencing in gardens and farms.
Aluminized shade fabric also contributes an extra cooling impact for the plants. The aluminum shade cloth reflects 80% of solar radiation while allowing 20% of light transmission. Aluminet is often used under plastic film mulch or on a greenhouse roof; it is a shade for a greenhouse. By replacing a black or dark-colored shade with a reflective shade, you could:
• choose the same shade and gain less heat gain,
• choose a lower level of shading and profit from higher PAR light transmission.
2 Types of Aluminet Shade Cloth
As the weather cools down, it’s important to keep your plants warm. With potentially frosty nights on the horizon, it’s important to make sure you protect your plants from any damage that could occur during a cold snap.
Luckily, aluminet shade cloth is here to help.
During the day, aluminet shade cloth reflects harmful UV rays away from your garden and greenhouse without sacrificing natural light or heat. At night, though, this same material can actually insulate your garden and trap heat inside, protecting your plants from frost and helping them thrive during the winter months.
Aluminet Greenhouse netting for shadeThere are two types of aluminet shade cloth available: Aluminet ‘0’ and Aluminet ‘I.’
Aluminet ‘O’ is for outdoor applications,
while Aluminet ‘I’ is for indoor purposes.
Note that no matter for this mark, both have been used outdoors for years.
Also, the knit pattern of Aluminet’ O’ has far more stretches than ‘I’ products.
Either of the variations has flexibility, brightness, strength, and easiness to spread.
The variation in percentage lets various amounts of sunlight enter.
It means that the rate of shade cloth you pick prevents the same part of the sun.
Hence, what you grow will help define the division of shade cloth you need.
Another essential aspect of choosing the correct density is the area where you live.
In other words, the shade cloth should be responding to the local climate.
For hotter places a more solid higher percentage of shade cloth.
Aluminet ‘O’ Minimal Shade Net- Shade Percentage 30%
This model is ideal for minimal shading. Its net is used to cover constructions. Or spread it as a ceiling below a greenhouse roof or mobile thermal protection.
The diffused light transmission is 79%, while the size is up to 32 ft (10 m).
Aluminet 75 outside (3)Aluminet’ O’ Minimal Shading for External Coverage- Shade Percentage 40%
It is excellent for minimal shading.
The model is mainly for external coverage of shade houses.
It covers tunnels and links spreading above the plastic covering of greenhouse roofs.
It is available with drawstrings for suspended installations and movable screens.
The diffused light transmission is 70%, while the size is up to 32 ft (10 m).
Aluminet ‘I’ Greenhouse Shade Cloth- Shade Percentage 40%
Primarily, the design is for internal use.
It can stay permanently as a ceiling under greenhouse covers.
Also, it is possible to install it as a moveable thermic screen.
The pattern comes with movable screens and drawstrings for recessed installations.
The diffused light transmission is 72%, while the size is up to 27.5 ft (8.4 m).
Aluminet ‘O’ Moderate Shade for External Coverage- Shade Percentage 50%
Fifty percent shade cloth for plants is for the outside cover of constructions.
It is also for joint spreading on the plastic screening greenhouse roofs.
It is efficient for energy conservation in winter.
The diffused light transmission is 60%, while the size is up to 32 ft (10 m).
Aluminet ‘I’ Greenhouse Shade Cloth- Shade Percentage 50%
The model is for internal use.
But also, it is spreadable like a ceiling underneath the greenhouse roof.
You could even establish it as a moveable thermic cover.
The diffused light transmission is 65%, while the size is up to 27.5 ft (8.4 m).
Aluminet 66 insideAluminet ‘O’ Dense Shading for Poultry/Cattle/Fish-breeding- Shade Percentage 80%
The product is used to protect/cover tunnels and shade houses.
It is also intended for linked spreading above the plastic covering.
The purpose of a plastic covering is to protect the greenhouse roof.
It is often in use in poultry/cattle/fish-breeding installations.
The diffused light transmission is 32%, and the size is up to 26 ft (8 m).
FAQs for Aluminet Shade Cloth
How much does shade cloth reduce temperature?
The researchers found that crops need to be cooled in order to prevent moisture loss. Aluminet reduces water loss up to 60% by providing maximum shading for crops. With canopy temperature reduced by 8°C~10C, it improves crop yield by creating a healthier environment for yield-critical plants, such as specific flowers, vegetables, and fruits.
How to Choose the Right Percentage of Shade Cloth for Greenhouse?
Shade cloth is a cost-effective way to control temperature, reduce wind, and provide privacy.
Not all shade cloth is created equal. The percentage of shade cloth refers to the amount of sun that will pass through the material. The lower the percentage, the cooler it is when using shaded cloth.
So, what percentage of shade cloth should you use? It depends on your application and location.
DensityName of Plants30%Roses, Strawberries, Gooseberries, Tomatoes, Cucumber40%Bedding Plants, Gloxinias, Herbs, Iris, Lilies, Vegetables50%Foliage plants, Cut greens, Orchids, Ginger, Pot plants60%Orchids ( Oncidiums, Phalaenopsis )70%Ferns, Orchids ( Cypripediums), Philodendron80%Indoor plants, Certain Orchids, Plantation crops, Tea, Coffee, Cardamom90%Cattle shed Poultry houses, Construction Scaffolding, and vehicular shadesWhat kind of shade cloth should I use?
The answer depends on what plant or crop you want to protect.
For example, if you’re growing tomatoes or peppers and want to inhibit sunburn but still allow some heat and light, you may choose one kind of shade cloth. If you’re protecting orchids or roses during summer months, however, you’ll probably choose another.
How to install shade cloth inside a greenhouse?
Whether you’re working with year-round vegetables, plants that need extra protection, or a delicate crop like orchids, shade cloth can provide the relief your plants need from the sun’s harsh rays. Consider installing a shade cloth system inside your greenhouse to help protect and prolong the life of your plants and increase your overall crop yield.
To summarize it
No matter which shade cloth you pick, you will have benefits. The award you receive is reducing both energy and water costs. It also gives you more pleasant work and healthier plants.
EYOUAGRO Aluminet supplies the full range of Aluminet shade cloth. We serve 55 countries for more than 100+ orchards and greenhouses.
If you have any questions about Aluminet, please contact us right now!