Over the years I've had many people ask about what to get for a simple casting set up, so I worked up a pretty detailed list. (updated Feb )
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Rio Grande has some nice kits, but I personally think you'll over spend and get things you don't need, but they are definitely great to look at and for some, might be just the thing to get you started. This is their least expensive.
Below is a comprehensive list of things you will need and possible places to purchase them. In most case, I will link to the items I have and items I use. I started out with a very low budget and made do with the most minimal set up, under $! Of course, that was almost 10 years ago. There are different ways of doing most things, so experiment if you see something you want to try! In many cases, these are simply the things I learned to use and have kept using because they work for me.
I also read Tim McCreight's Practical Casting - cover to cover! A great resource.
The most logical way for me to outline everything is by process. Starting right after you have your finished wax all sprued up, you'll be attaching the pieces to sprue bases and investing.
*All of this is laid out in terms for someone who has somewhat of a background in metalsmithing - as with everything, do at your own risk, take care of your safety and health.
Investing Supplies
Sprue bases and Flasks - Your flask size will determine what size sprue base to get. I use a lot of the small 2 x 2 1/2" flask - the smaller the flask you can get away with using, the less investment you'll use, thereby, saving you money.
For a variety of size flasks - Rio or Santa Fe Jewelers Supply
And for a variety of size sprue bases: Rio or Santa Fe Jewelers Supply
Timer with seconds - I prefer this over just watching a clock with a second hand. I like to see the count down.
Scale - The scale I use has been discontinued, it was pretty inexpensive, but I had an even cheaper scale to begin with. I already had a feel for what the investment should be like mixed, so I could adjust to feel. If you haven't done it before, I would recommend getting a good scale and a good graduated cylinder if measuring the water by amount by volume. Some recipes call for weighing the water, which is what I do now. This is an inexpensive scale that even comes with a scoop! I do use a digital scale similar to this.
Measuring cup/graduated cylinder - if you have a measuring cup with oz, you can use that (I had an extra in my kitchen) But this graduated cylinder is similar to one I have used. Or you can use the scale to weigh the water.
Investment - good basic investment I started out using (I don't think exists anymore) - Kerr Satin Cast 20 - I recently switched to Ransom and Randolph's Ultra-Vest w/ Band-dust tech. It apparently greatly reduces the respirable dust, which is a great thing.
Some sort of scoop (I used a plastic cup for a long time - cheap start up I tell ya) I do like a big metal scoop now though.
Mixing bowl - you can use any bowl that will fit under the vacuum dome, but really... the black rubber bowls are the best. I have the pint and the 1 1/2 qt and use that one almost exclusively.
Flask extender or tape - really, just use tape. painter's tape works really well or masking tape. I've used packing tape and that is fine too. The extenders cost more money than a roll of tape. I've never actually used the extenders, but I like the idea of them I suppose... I like that they're reusable.
Vacuum Table - this little guy from Rio. I would still recommend it - such a space saver!
Some sort of respirator, dust mask, ventilation... If you can, vent out a window - there are a lot of great set ups for that. I cannot, so I have an amazing fume extractor from Hakko.
After investing, the flasks go in the kiln!
Burnout
Kiln - my kiln is this one - manual. It was a lot of work, but it was the most affordable at the time. After a couple years I got a kiln controller that is no longer made. If you can, go for one that has a controller! And after looking at kilns to find the right link - so much more is available now, and for less with a controller than I paid for my kiln without. This is a pretty great looking little kiln. I got a 220v and have a dedicated outlet. It might mean paying an electrician to come out set up an outlet for you.
Casting
Some people use melting furnaces - I never have. You should check it out though. If you don't have a torch, it could be a great solution for you. I already had a torch and that was how I knew how to cast. So the supplies I'm listing are for that method.
Torch - I use an air/acetylene most of the time. Like this Smith set up (you can get a tank at your local gas supply - no need to buy an empty tank because you'll most likely say goodbye to it when you go to fill it up and they just exchange instead. If you don't already have a torch, you'll need some sort of striker - I like this no-hands version electronic torch lighter - it is amazing! And leak check solution, which you can make with soap and water (you can google it or just buy some), tank key (also available where you get your gas tank). Safety first - maybe have someone help you with all that...
Torch tip - I find #3 to be the best.
For more information, please visit Yitai.
Crucible - I used to use the larger heavier crucibles and then I found the whip. Love. it. I generally do 2oz and under. Mostly under 1oz and in gold, it's like 1/2 oz... There are two different sizes for The WHIP, I use the smaller most of the time and the 2 1/4" size crucibles. It is best to use a different one for each type of metal. This is the larger, which I don't use much at all. If you're doing larger castings, these heavier crucibles really are better because they retain heat more. Some people don't like them, but I've been using the same one for probably 10 years and figured out how to make it work for me.
Flux - for prepping crucible and casting - Matt's casting flux - go for the 1lb, no need for the 2 1/2lb.
Stirring rod - I use these carbon stirring rods. I've read there are better ones, but have yet to use any other ones.
Hot mitts! - let me know if you find any better fitting ones - these large bulky ones will work just fine. I have tiny child-sized hands and I use only the right when when grabbing the flask out of the kiln. It's a pretty basic task, so you don't really need dexterity anyway.
Tongs - these tongs have really horrible reviews. They are the "economy" ones but I've been using the same pair for 12-14 years and I'm still using them. Pro-tip! Use the little ends - not the big ol' rounded surfaces like in the photo - the little ends that are more like 90 degree brackets - and I really choke up on them and... I don't think I have ever dropped a flask. I think for larger flasks I do use as shown, but that is rare.
Eye Protection - wear it, and don't wear flip flops.
Quench Bucket - I use big 5 gallon buckets. You want to have enough water in there that you can completely submerge the flask. So, to start, probably 10" deep at least. If it is a brand new bucket - DO NOT drop the flask in. Hot things melt plastic right? Once there is a solid layer of investment muck in the bottom it isn't an issue. I have used a metal bucket, but the one I used rusted and corroded.
Clean up
After quenching is my least favorite part... clean up.
Gloves - You might have to dig through the goopy mess of investment at the bottom of the bucket to find your piece. For this, I suggest gloves -particularly in the winter time. The investment will really dry out your hands as if jewelry making doesn't already do a job on them. Investment is the worst. And if you're not in a climate controlled environment the water is usually freezing cold unless you've quenched a whole bunch of flasks before sticking your hands in there. I use these because they come in a size small for my tiny hands. But you know, whatever works for you. In the summer, sometimes I don't bother at all.
Toothbrushes - good old toothbrushes - I use them all the time. I have several different ones in different shapes and sizes. They're kind of the best for cleaning off investment. These little tiny ones are awesome too - the ones for cleaning out around braces. They usually come in a couple different sizes - if you look for them at the grocery store, you'll have a better idea of the size. I also find good brushes at brewing supply shops.
Brass brush - This can knock off big chunks, but then also it is needed for cleaning the flasks. These with the wooden handles are fine, but you may be able to find ones at a local hardware store (for cheaper) that have a plastic handles that are better for constant use with water. I have also found an interesting steel one that is used for scrubbing a bbq grill. I'm always on the lookout for scrubbing brushes of all sorts. Make sure you have a separate one for investment than using on your nice jewelry.
Ultrasonic cleaner - this is in no way a need at all. Just that it is a way to help clean up your castings. Since we're talking about a minimalist set up, I'm not even going to give you a link.
Pickle - I don't know where the term actually comes from - but it's the acid you may be already using to clean your metal. If you don't have something already, you can use citric acid, pool pH decreaser, sparex or vinegar. The amount of "chemical" you want to use is totally up to you, just be good to the environment and be careful of disposing things. For awhile I just used vinegar in a jar and would soak the castings overnight. Made them super easy to clean up! I've most recently been using CitPic because you can put steel in it and it won't cause copper contamination.
From here, your metal should be clean! Everything after this falls a little outside of the "casting". Most likely if you are already a jeweler or metalsmith you'll have tools for cleaning up the castings, removing sprues etc. Depending on how you attached your sprues you can saw them off with a jewelers saw or clip with something like these sprue cutters that cut up to 8g. These are a little nicer version, they are more of a flush cutter, but for slightly smaller sprues. Knipex also makes some realllly nice ones. You can file or grind depending on what works best for you. For grinding I like these carbide burs. They're probably in my top 5 tool list - I have two, I think the medium and the extra fine. And then I use rubber wheels after that! For what I do most of the time, I like the control I get from the different abrasive rubber wheels. These kits are good if you've never used them - EVEFlex or EVE Silicone Polishers (they used to be called AdvantEdge). I use a mix of both of those, I tend to go with the course white, medium black, then the red (or they call it brown) and then the green if I wanting more shine. Sometimes a light file and sand paper might be all you need.
My Usual Suppliers (I usually price check, sometimes one will be drastically different)
Rio Grande
Otto Frei
Stuller
Contenti
Gesswein
Santa Fe Jewelers Supply
"Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more"Time for an update. It takes such a large block of time (close to 20 hours straight) to do a casting that I can usually only one attempt in in a weekend. Something goes wrong, and wait until next week.I also bought some silicone bronze ingots, trying to eliminate possibles sources of the issue, i.e. using mystery metal.Still lots of flawsThe one at the right, is the above cleaned up an few hours in the polisher. Better, but far too many flaws for this dog to drop the bone!This has been brutally frustrating. I've a spent a small fortune on different castable resins and so far all are s**t. I think the issue is whatever the resin does on burnout is damaging the mold, but to be sure, i.e. isolate that, I decided to do a casting with a wax pattern instead of a resin pattern.I fortunately have a vulcanizer and wax injector (when I bought the oven and vacuum caster it was a complete kit from a guy leaving the business) so it shouldn't be too big a deal, right?The first thing is to make a mold to create the wax pattern, using the 3D resin printed part. As the part is somewhat fragile I elected to make the mold with RTV Silicone (that btw stands for room temp vulcanizing, no heat vulcanizing needed). That means pouring a liquid from using a press vulcanizer, far easier on the pattern.First though, I need a casting box for the the silicone. 3D printer to the rescueIt did take me two tries, the first had too many air bubbles. The manufacture claims no vacuuming is necessary, but I found this highly optimistic. You might be able to dissipate them by vibration, hold something against the box, but have a vacuum made that easyThere are some tricks to cutting the mold in two. You need a set up like shown below, so you can pull the rubber apart to keep cutting inward. You also put in some curves so there is lots to register on.This is just cutting a bit of excess material off, but shows the idea of its useReady to try. The wax is at 180-190F and under about 5psi of pressure (hand pump, black knob on the top right of the injector)Injecting with the rubber in the 3D printed box shown below proved to be incorrect. Best to clamp between two steel plates - lets the vents work.and try, and try and tryEveryone had some error on it. Incomplete, hollow sections, etc.What went wrong? First issue I had was air entrapment. I learned how to cut vents in a mold.The thing that kept nagging was how soft the mold was. It seems like I couldn't take advantage of the wax pressure without having to squeeze the mold together so tightly that it was badly distorted. Commercial RTV sold by jewellry supply places is listed at shore 36. The The RTV Silicone I bought, claimed on the amazon site it was Shore 30 (A scale). I figured it would work. This stuff is not cheap and clearly says its 30A https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09CYYB311/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did have a few jewellers molds which seemed far stiffer than my RTV mold. But I says to meself, maybe the rubber is old and stiff?Finally I couldn't take it any more and ordered A scale durometer. The $@#% $##$@%$^#@ #@)(^# stuff from Amazon is 7!! Despite being advertised at 30. The jewelers molds I had measure exactly 36.The time wasted by that misrepresentation is really frustrating. Of to BC tomorrow for the weekend...when back I'll order some proper RTV from Gesswein and try again. If I get a good casting, I can carry on with this model.....we'll see if I have enough left in the tank to keep going back to the resin makers. It would be so nice to go from print to investment mold...but man, it is challenging!
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