How do you identify vintage perfume bottles?

14 Apr.,2024

 

If you wish to sell this bottle, you'll need to determine whether or not it originally came with an atomizer bulb, or whether, in fact, a splash bottle was also offered (with a cap as shown in your photos). I suggest you research the house's other vintage offerings (which Possum-Pie has listed above), and compare photos to determine the answer as nearly as possible.

Bottle collectors will care a great deal about whether or not this is the original bottle, without changes. The missing label will be a major issue, if the other fragrances from this house were offered in the same bottle style; yours might be one of their other perfumes (unlike the eBay photo, which in fact has a label stating the name).

Whether or not the atomizer apparatus has been switched out, vintage perfume collectors will of course want to know what they are purchasing, so the missing label will be a major issue for them, too. Whoever buys this will be taking a risk, unless you can find out more about what you have - which might not be possible, at this point.

In addition, it appears that the cap is crystallized in place, so anyone wishing to open the bottle will need to take great care with it: the glass and cap are apt to brittle.

On the other hand, maybe you wish to keep it and enjoy - perhaps even wear - this lovely old scent that still smells so good.

 






The Bottle Itself:


Bottles embossed with or having labels marked "Made in Occupied Japan" were made from September 1945 until April 1952.

Enameled lettering, also known as serigraphy (instead of labels), on glass bottles started being used after the 1930s and was pretty regular feature in the 1940s onward. This lettering was made via silkscreen process is quite fragile and can be easily lost with cleaning.

Look for a patent number on the base of the bottle, these patent dates were frequent in the 1930s and 1940s, you can look up the number on search engines on US patent webpages online. If your number is prefaced with the letter D, this means it is a design patent. Also, English Registry Design numbers can also be found on perfume bottles from the United Kingdom, you can search the numbers online also.

Old glass bottles might have etched numbers on the base of the perfume bottle and on the bottom of the stopper plug. The incised markings on the base are also to be found on the base of the stopper plug. These numbers should match. They were done at the factory when the bottle and stopper were ground to fit one another for a precise, airtight fit. At the end of the production line, after being filled with perfume, the bottle was then matched up with its corresponding stopper, then sealed with cording around its neck, paper labels were affixed, then boxed up and ready to be shipped off to the retailer. These were usually found on French crystal bottles such as Baccarat, but are also found on Bohemian ones. Remember, just because there are incised numbers - it doesn't automatically mean it is Baccarat. It is entirely possible to find mismatched bases and stoppers, this usually happens from employee error, but can also happen later in the bottle's life, when someone tries to replace a broken or missing stopper and finds a loose one floating around on the market. 


Older bottles stamped their name and origin somewhere on the bottle. Most of the perfume bottles you will likely come across are marked "Made in France" on the base. In the 1940s, stickers replaced the stamping but were soon lost or destroyed, making it difficult to authenticate. From 1936 onward, Baccarat bottles will systematically be marked with an acid stamp on the base. Prior to this, paper labels were affixed, but could be lost over time. 

Older bottles from the 1930s-40s may have lot numbers, bottle shape numbers or patent numbers embossed right into the glass base. These are generally American made bottles, but British made bottles may have the English Registry numbers, which are prefixed with "Rd......" or "Rgd...."

By 1970, cosmetic companies were stamping colored numbers on the bottom of their products. This stamping usually consisted of four numbers and was visible on the bottom of each item and is a "batch code", which is used by the company to note what year and month the product was created. Batch codes are often found either stamped on the glass or the label. Later, many bottles often have their batch codes engraved into the glass; (Chanel, Dior, Thierry Mugler, etc).




PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic coated glass bottles were first made in 1953. In 1952, the Bristol-Myers Company announced the details of a successful method of coating aerosol bottles with plastic. The Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, NJ acquired the rights to this process and made plastic-coated bottles available to the perfume industry starting in 1953 and continued to manufacture them into the 1970s I believe. These bottles are made distinctive by their rubbery feeling surfaces and were fitted with aerosol sprays. The first product packaged in a plastic-coated bottle was a fragrance by Corday, Fame. Other companies such as Avon, Dana, Elizabeth Arden, Studio Girl, Legend of Love, Coty, and Prince Matchabelli used these for various perfume mists and colognes. 


The shapes of the bottles varies as much as the colors used. Most notably, Estee Lauder made use of a turquoise blue shade for its famous Youth Dew fragrance. But beware! Estee Lauder brought back that blue coated bottle recently . In 1958, Coty had color coordinated bottles to represent their most popular fragrances, Emeraude in dark green or pastel green, L'Aimant in pastel pink or darker pink, both Paris and Muguet des Bois in blue, L'Origan in black, etc. Dana used a fuchsia color for their Ambush, but chose black for their Tabu scent for a more elegant, mysterious appearance. Avon ran the gamut when it came to colorizing their fragrances, many of their colognes are in these bottles including A Mist of Roses, Persian Wood, Occur. Many of the other plastic coated Avon cologne bottles can be found in different shapes.





More standardized packaging was introduced after August 1975 due to an increase in crude oil prices used in glass and plastic containers. Manufacturers cut back on fancy bottle shapes in favor of the plain stock bottles. These plain stock bottles are also referred to as "omnibus" bottles. They were generally used for the entire line of fragrances. Chanel is a company that uses omnibus bottles for most of its line, you'll notice that the classic Chanel bottle is its trademark.


Manufacturers also reported an increase in alternatives to the aerosol packaging that was so ubiquitous in the 1950s and 1970s. Pump sprays , known as "Natural Sprays" with no gas propellants were said to be safer to use and equal or less in price than aerosols. Natural Spray bottles, that dispensed fine "metered mists" were used as early as 1963 by Lanvin for their perfume Arpege (Lanvin claimed gas is a more volatile propellant than air). In 1966, D'Orsay offered its natural sprays which they called "Mist Unique."


Today, those aerosol bottles have a tendency to leak during air transport or to continuously spray, severely draining your bottle and wasting the juice- it happened to me with a vintage 1970s Madame Rochas aerosol canister bottle, which continued to spray, I had to put it inside a bag to contain the liquid. Also aerosol propellants and their rubber gaskets inside the bottle are known to have changed the scent in a negative way over the years.


Roll-on applicators were also on the rise. So called "perfume pens" with rubber sponge tipped applicators were seen mostly in the 1980s, today many of the rubber sponge tips can be found degraded due to contact with the alcohol in the perfume and can render them no longer usable.



Older bottles stamped their name and origin somewhere on the bottle. Most of the perfume bottles you will likely come across are marked "Made in France" on the base. In the 1940s, stickers replaced the stamping but were soon lost or destroyed, making it difficult to authenticate. From 1936 onward, Baccarat bottles will systematically be marked with an acid stamp on the base. Prior to this, paper labels were affixed, but could be lost over time.Older bottles from the 1930s-40s may have lot numbers, bottle shape numbers or patent numbers embossed right into the glass base. These are generally American made bottles, but British made bottles may have the English Registry numbers, which are prefixed with "Rd......" or "Rgd...."By 1970, cosmetic companies were stamping colored numbers on the bottom of their products. This stamping usually consisted of four numbers and was visible on the bottom of each item and is a "batch code", which is used by the company to note what year and month the product was created. Batch codes are often found either stamped on the glass or the label. Later, many bottles often have their batch codes engraved into the glass; (Chanel, Dior, Thierry Mugler, etc).


Labels:


Old labels turn brown naturally due to oxidation of the paper, however, water and perfume can cause stains on labels over the years. 


The styles of the boxes or labels can also help determine age. Art Nouveau is generally 1890-1920s, Art Deco mid 1920s and some styles carried into the 1940s, psychedelic late 1960s-early 1970s. Please note that this isn't always foolproof due to trends and style revivals as there are some periods during the Psychedelic period where a revival of Art Nouveau was enjoyed.. 





On bottles destined for the Mexican market, you may find labels with a number and the initials "TDSP", this stands for "Tratado sobre el Derecho Sustantivo de Patentes" which means "Substantive Patent Law Treaty." I have found these small paper labels on bottles from the 1930s and 1940s. The companies found were Chanel, Bourjois, Lentheric, Myrurgia, Guerlain, Bienaime, Isabey and Ciro. I am sure there are plenty others. This was a trademark for the perfume name itself  such as Chanel No. 5. or Surrender by Ciro. These names were registered in Mexico in the "Industria y Comercia de México" and the "Cromos" trade journals to protect the brands from counterfeiters and competitors.


At the beginning of the 20th century, revenue stamps appeared on the imported scents coming into America. This stamped container is considered very collectible to stamp collectors, because of the information on that stamp. This makes it a cross-collectible and increases value.On bottles destined for the Mexican market, you may find labels with a number and the initials "TDSP", this stands for "Tratado sobre el Derecho Sustantivo de Patentes" which means "Substantive Patent Law Treaty." I have found these small paper labels on bottles from the 1930s and 1940s. The companies found were Chanel, Bourjois, Lentheric, Myrurgia, Guerlain, Bienaime, Isabey and Ciro. I am sure there are plenty others. This was a trademark for the perfume name itself such as Chanel No. 5. or Surrender by Ciro. These names were registered in Mexico in the "Industria y Comercia de México" and the "Cromos" trade journals to protect the brands from counterfeiters and competitors.


Always look at all sides of a bottle. Some labels can be read from both sides, looking thru the back of the bottle. You might encounter labels which have the date stamped on the back of the labels. Sample bottles from the 1950s onward, often had labels that would say "sample, not to be sold". Today's bottles read "tester". Factice, or display bottles, filled with colored water to simulate perfume, were not meant for resale, and will have labels such as: "dummy, not for sale". Sometimes a date is also stamped on the backside of the label, I have seen this with old Chanel and Lanvin bottles. Chanel bottles from the 1960s onward may have the backs of their labels marked with a copyright symbol and the "CC" logo. 


If your bottle has a label which states: "returning this bottle to the perfumer is a national duty"...then your bottle dates from 1940-1945 during World War II. These bottles, when used up by consumers, would be sent back to the French perfume factories to be refilled and resold. This was a very cost effective practice as bottle manufacturing was no doubt put on hold and had restrictions due to the war, but I wonder how much was actually sent back to the perfumers, and how much actually made it there.


If your label states that the perfume was "created/compounded/assembled" in France or USA, it dates to after the 1940s and most likely dates to the 1950s. This is due to the Federal Trade Commission's crack down on domestic perfumes being fraudulently labeled as coming from France. If an American perfume branch of a French company, for example, Guerlain, imported the perfume essences and filled the bottles in America, they had to mention "created/compounded/assembled." American companies realized that by using American alcohol and American manufactured bottles, they could cut costs from customs duties and increase profits. All they had to do was import the perfume oils and mix them domestically in their American factories.


The presence of clear labels indicating contents were first used around the 1950s. These are either on the front, back or base of your bottle.





If your bottle has a label stating SDA (Specially Denatured Alcohol) it dates to the 1940s-1950s.


If your box or label has a number with a degree symbol, this notes the perfume or cologne's alcohol percentage. Two common percentages are 80% and 90% for eau de toilette and cologne. This helps date the bottle to after the 1950s.


A Zip Code on a label denotes age meaning this bottle is from 1962 or later. Before 1937, no zip codes were used. From 1937 to 1962, two code numbers were used on mail and labels. In 1962, all zip codes were required by the US Postal Service.




By Manufacturer:



Lalique perfumes were marked with a signature on the bases. The signature has

Look on the base of your bottle for acid stamps for Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy or Cristal Romesnil, these markings add value to your bottle. Cristal Nancy closed their doors in 1934. Only from 1936, Baccarat bottles were systematically engraved with a mark. Prior to this, they were acid etched, stamped and some had round paper labels, while many have no distinguishing marks.Lalique perfumes were marked with a signature on the bases. The signature has changed over the years and you can date a bottle by the style of the signature. Older bottles are marked R. Lalique in block lettering. You can look up various websites or books on Lalique to find signatures and the dates they were used. If your bottle is signed Rene Lalique or R. Lalique, this mark was used until 1945 when Rene Lalique died, after this date bottles will be simply marked Lalique France.


If your bottle has an embossed entwined HP mark on the base of the bottle, it was made by the glass factory of Pochet et du Courval in France after 1930.


If your bottle is marked S or SGD on the base, it was manufactured by the Saint Gobain Desjonqueres glass factory of France after the 1950s, when the factory was rebuilt after WWII and equipped with modern fully-automatic machinery.





If your bottle has a VB, or BR mark on the base, it was made by Verreries Brosse of France after the 1920s when the factory installed semi-automatic bottle making machines. In 1963, Brosse switched from making hand ground stoppers to precision machine grinding. In 1976, Brosse patented two new stopper innovations, the first is a ring made of polypropylene with horizontal joints placed on the stopper dowel. The second is a polypropylene coating of the stopper dowel designed with internal friction teeth. So if your glass stopper had a plastic cap on the end of its dowel, you can be sure it dates to the 1970s - onward. This goes for ANY perfume bottle, not just VB, with the plastic cap on the dowel plug.


If your bottle is marked Gaillard, J. Viard or J. Villard, it was made during 1900-1920s. Lucien Gaillard was a contemporary of Lalique and designed many Art Nouveau perfume bottles for notable French perfume houses such as Clamy and Violet. Julien Viard was a French glass designer of the 1920s and designed bottles for Richard Hudnut, Isabey, Favolys and Langlois. Both Gaillard and Viard collaborated and you might find the mark of J. Villard on some bottles. Both Viard and Gaillard signed bottles are considered high calibre and are coveted by collectors today.

Do you have a vintage perfume and need help in figuring out how old it may be? Simply knowing when your perfume first came out can be a huge help, but it helps to remember that some perfumes were made for many years after their launch dates. On the other hand, some perfumes were only sold for a very short time. Here is a comprehensive guide to help you figure out the age of your perfume bottle.If your bottle is marked Gaillard, J. Viard or J. Villard, it was made during 1900-1920s. Lucien Gaillard was a contemporary of Lalique and designed many Art Nouveau perfume bottles for notable French perfume houses such as Clamy and Violet. Julien Viard was a French glass designer of the 1920s and designed bottles for Richard Hudnut, Isabey, Favolys and Langlois. Both Gaillard and Viard collaborated and you might find the mark of J. Villard on some bottles. Both Viard and Gaillard signed bottles are considered high calibre and are coveted by collectors today.

How do you identify vintage perfume bottles?

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