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garhkal wrote: &#;If you mean full, 3D terrain, it is beautiful, but it gets in the way. Setup is even more egregious, as well! I had one basic set of Dwarven Forge, gifted to me. I later sold it, unused: I realized that to have enough to do what I wanted with it, I would need to buy around 5-7 Basic Sets, and add expansions to it! That would require a 2nd mortgage on the house... After my divorce settlement was finalized. Happily married, working to keep it that way.Tue Jul 11, 5:58 pm
That is why i''ve been tempted to get into dungeon tiles/wiz-lock tiles and such.That is why i''ve been tempted to get into dungeon tiles/wiz-lock tiles and such.
garhkal wrote: &#;Not to side track the discussion, but here are some points to ponder about table designs...Tue Jul 11, 5:58 pm
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If i ever get to make my own table, i'll have a mondo-mat centered on it too....If i ever get to make my own table, i'll have a mondo-mat centered on it too....
If you mean full, 3D terrain, it is beautiful, but it gets in the way. Setup is even more egregious, as well! I had one basic set of Dwarven Forge, gifted to me. I later sold it, unused: I realized that to have enough to do what I wanted with it, I would need to buy around 5-7 Basic Sets, and add expansions to it! That would require a 2nd mortgage on the house... After my divorce settlement was finalized.Happily married, working to keep it that way.Not to side track the discussion, but here are some points to ponder about table designs... 4" game well in the top, sounds great, but I recommend against them: complicates the table design and cost; making a removable covering is complex, expensive, and you likely will tire of adding/removing it -- they're heavy, they are very cumbersome, and they take up a lot of storage space when not covering the tabletop.I came up with the design concepts for both tables linked to in the photos. I gave up on the game well design, choosing the flat-top design for my own table, shown below. Very happy I changed my design preference! Not a fan of game wells, after using them for a couple of years. This also lowered the price of my personal table, by a few thousand Dollars: no removable topper pieces; no fold-down drawer covers -- a lot less Hickory wood required. Hickory is harder than Oak; it takes stain of any color, so if you want it to look like Cherry, Purpleheart, Wenge, or Padauk, just stain it appropriately.Pull-out drawers beneath the top, playing surface are amazing, but they're more used during miniatures games, than they will be in RPG sessions; many players forget they are there, so they often go unused; players/DM's will need to open/close them often -- very often, and this impinges upon their use.An option to consider, carefully (due to added expense), is an electronic lift system . If you play miniatures games on it , this is an absolutely joyful option! Second view, showing the control panel -- note that the height is continuously adjustable, so you can set it at any height, within its range, and leave it there.If you make a table 5+ feet by 8+ feet, you will need to reinforce the underside of the topper, to avoid flexing ! My carpenter did not account for this, so I had to screw in sections of square steel sign posts to the underside to provide support, making the top flat again, six months after it was delivered! The sign posts have kept it flat, properly supported, for a couple of years, now. My table is solid Hickory, with the top being 1-inch thick; the drawer understructures did not go all the way across, so they did not properly support the top, to prevent it flexing under its own weight.A custom table, even if you make it yourself, is a tremendous investment. Make sure to consider all of the options, carefully, before you pull the trigger. Cheers!
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